This page covers most of the materials needed through Lecture 18: Degas, Hammershøi, and Other Projects.
These tubes represent our beginning palette of white, black and the earth tones. I've linked here to , the same brand I used in the course. The titanium white is a large, studio size, tube (150 ml). The others are all standard tubes (37 ml).
(also labeled Lead White and Cremnitz White - contains lead)
While Williamsburgh is one of the more expensive paint brands, for these colors the price differential is not extreme. That said, there are plenty of viable less-expensive options including and , to name a few. You'll find a full discussion of brands and price in the course guidebook chapter on Lecture 19: Materials, Oil Paint Brands and Quality.
Brushes: Hog Bristle
brushes are excellent hog bristle brushes. I use them routinely in my studio and used them in the course, too. In Lecture 3: Basic Painting Materials I suggested getting a 1, 3, and a 5 of the four basic brush shapes—flat, bright, round and filbert. If your budget allows, you might also want to get a couple 8s.
Brushes: Soft Bristle (Long Handle)
To get started, this is an affordable set of from the Princeton brush company. It includes a flat, a bright, a filbert, and two rounds.
Brushes: Soft Bristle (Short Handle)
For very small and detailed work I've used these .
Palette and Painting Knives
There are a great variety of in a range of sizes and shapes. One and/or one would be fine to get started.
To make a palette like the one I made in Lecture 3: Basic Painting Materials you'll need a piece of glass, a piece of white foamcore cut to the same size as the glass, and some white tape. If you don't have a convenient source for glass you might want to look at theses and these heavier . is available at most art supply stores. This is , like what I used in the video. To clean the glass palette you'll need a .
There are a range of , for a range of painting media including water color, acrylic and oil. Among the options I discussed in the lecture Basic Painting Materials are and .
Odorless Mineral Spirits (OMS), Linseed Oil and Squeeze Bottles
I've been using odorless mineral spirits for some time now. In comparison with hardware store brands it's much more "odorless" because more of the harmful aromatic compounds have been removed. You'll need about 64 oz to get started—30-36 oz for the 2 brush cleaners, the rest for your squeeze bottle(s) and to top-off the brush cleaners as needed. You'll also need some . About 8 oz should be fine to get going. I've often used these .
Brush Cleaners and Cleaning
These are the that I used for the brush cleaners. You'll also need some and some —I generally use something between 10 and 22 gauge—and a couple empty, clean small cans, like tuna cans. The specialty soap I used in the brush cleaning demo was . If you forget to clean a brush and the paint has dried somewhat I've found that can do the trick and bring the brush back to life.
Prepared Canvas Rolls
For all the paintings and exercises in the first 27 lectures I used pre-primed unstretched canvas cut to size from a roll. There are here. If you've never used this kind of material before you could get an inexpensive and try it out. Or, you could get something a bit that will allow you to paint more projects without needing to re-order. Another option's to get something with a more substantial . In the videos I used both and . They're both great, but they're also expensive. These are heavy-duty aluminum and work very well for pinning a piece of canvas to a sheetrock wall.
There are a range of other options to consider, from that will work in most home printers, to , to more expensive , to in a range of qualities and at a range of price points. If you opt for panels or stretched canvas you'll want to make sure that the size you choose will work for a given project.
If you'd like to print the cartoons for the course on watercolor paper using your home printer, try a 90 lb. paper like what you get in the pads. Trimmed to 8 1/2" x 11" the paper worked fine in my HP laserjet printer.
Though I didn't use one in this course, this is the I used in How to Draw. Here are some other options in a range of styles and price points - from a , to a , to a reasonably-priced , to a mid-range to a that can be used either vertically or horizontally.
If you don't want to bother making one, this is the commercially available I showed in Lecture 3 and used in the videos.
These are the and the I used in Lecture 14. This is the .
Health and Safety
These are the I use in my studio and also used in the videos. This is my and . The latter, unfortunately, are quite pricey.
I've used these . They're 5000K, 3,400 lumens, have a CRI of 82 and a beam angle of 290º. I've also used these . They're available in either 5,000 or 6,500K, output 800 lumens, have a CRI of 95 and a beam angle of 320º. They also make a that's also available in either 5,000 or 6,500K, outputs 1800 lumens, and has a CRI of 95.
Miscellaneous Items for the Studio
I use both this and this in my studio. They're both heavy and well made. The blade is very sharp, so keep your fingers well away. This is the I used in the videos and have in my studio.
David Brody, 2019, after Thomas Couture, Juliette, 1876
From The Complete Painter: Lessons from the Masters, Lecture 12
The Complete Painter: Lessons from the Masters
Basic Painting Materials